George Weld opened his restaurant Egg in the spring of 2005. He said, "It's a collaboration with our friends who own Sparky's, a delicious hot dog and hamburger place in Williamsburg." The friends are Brian and Melissa Benavidez. Weld's restaurant features local and artisanal ingredients. The eggs are the product of free-roaming hens. Weld is from the South. He grew up in Virginia and the Carolinas, the heart of American breakfast country, where his father was a traveling minister. Weld told Isaac Asimov in an interview for a Diner's Journal segment in the New York Times that his big reward as a child was pancakes for dinner. Weld settled in New York in his 20s and was 33 when he opened Egg two years ago. Asimov said that the new restaurateur had been "living a typical Williamsburg life, working at a dotcom and writing a novel" when he became friendly with the Benavidezes. Sparky's All-American Food, owned by the Benavidezes, is an all-natural hot dog and hamburger joint. It occupies a narrow space, converted commercial property -- a cozy breakfast, lunch and dinner haven. Sparky's was open for lunch and dinner. Mornings were dead time for the hot dog diner. Opportunity pounded and as Asimov coined it, with the Benavidezes, Mr. Weld hatched a plan. Now each morning Sparky's become Eggs, serving breakfast until noon, at which time the space reverts to Sparky's. Weld's southern roots are evident in the menu. He sweetens his granola with sorghum, buys his country ham from Col. Newsom's Aged Hams in Kentucky and grits from South Carolina. About the food... Eggs Rothko features a soft-cooked egg in a slice of brioche topped by Grafton Village cheddar. Ed Levine says, "imagine eggs-in-a-hold made by Alice Waters." On a flaky, just moist enough buttermilk biscuit George Weld puts homemade fig jam, Col Bill Newsom's Aged Kentucky Country Ham and Grafton cheddar. Served with buttery Anson Mills grits on the side, the dish is described as Colonel Sanders meets Mario Batali. Egg (at Sparky's)A former fish warehouse on N. 5th St. in Brooklyn's Williamsburg is home in the mornings, 7 a.m. to noon weekdays and 8 a.m. to noon, weekends, to the restaurant Egg. The space is shared with Sparky's All-American Food, an all natural hamburger and hot dog joint. The decor is concrete walls, wooden beams and weathered pine tables. The venu is "naturally" breakfast. 135A N. 5th St. (at Bedford), Brooklyn, N.Y. 718-302-5151